I’m retiring this summer time and thought my final conservation remedy ought to hook up with the primary one. Thirty-four years in the past I used to be employed to work on the ladies’s 18th century assortment. It was a singular second, as there was a BSM assortment however no exhibition house. Myself and one other conservator conserved the footwear that was most in want of intervention.
These footwear have been bought in 1982 from a supplier specializing in historic clothes and niknaks. Whereas the embroidered silk faille vamps have been very fairly, it was apparent somebody had fiddled considerably with the quarters on each footwear. Remnants of the unique silk faille have been glued to a figured silk satin. Random embroidery components some unique, a pair with a totally totally different aesthetic, have been additionally glued to the alternative cloth.
The flower on the left is a totally totally different fashion than the finely executed flower on the proper.
The adhesive was disfiguring and damaging. It was an orangey-yellow color, composed of brittle islands on the silk, in addition to the leather-based lining to which it had been connected. The onerous patches of adhesive have been slicing via the desiccated fibres of the remaining faille. In a number of of areas the adhesive had dried out inflicting losses of embroidery, as witnessed by adhesive stains to which nothing was connected. The unique silk ribbon binding was extant alongside the highest edges of the tongue extensions however utterly lacking alongside the tops of the quarters. It had been changed in the course of the earlier ‘restoration’.
After discussing these points with the curator it was determined the figured silk satin must be changed with a silk faille, the adhesive residue must be eliminated as a lot as potential and the alternative ribbon could be reused. Solvents have been examined to find out which one could be greatest at eradicating the disfiguring adhesive. The topline ribbon was eliminated first, by clipping the stitches with a pair of curved blade scissors to stop nicking the unique cloth. Then the adhesive securing the unique cloth to the alternative wanted to be lowered with the intention to detach these parts, and at last the quarters have been eliminated.
Left: adhesive stains
Proper: eradicating adhesive residue from embroidery
The unique faille was ivory however over time developed a really faint brown discolouration. The brand new faille, and hair silk for stitching, have been dyed with tea to impart an aged look. Probably the most full alternative quarter was used as a template from which to chop the brand new quarters. It was lasted into the only real seam with a reversible adhesive and a spatula, making an allowance for that the weave of the brand new cloth wanted to match the route of the weave of the unique remnants. The quarter was secured to the leather-based lining with tiny clips and uncommon earth magnets as anchors. The brand new cloth was sewn with hair silk and a wonderful beading needle that was handed via present sew holes alongside the topline.
Discovering a alternative ribbon related in weave and width to the 18th century ribbon is just about unattainable, not less than I’ve but to discover a appropriate supply. The topline binding that got here with the footwear was sewn again in place utilizing the identical method as for the brand new quarters (hair silk, beading needle).
The remedy has stabilized the unique cloth to stop additional harm, leading to a shoe that appears extra consistent with the intention of the shoemaker.